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It might be a truism, but a city like LA has always been a magnet for people from around the world. One such group of people, Russian emigres fleeing the October Revolution and its aftermath, found their way here and in time left their distinctive mark on the city’s landscape. Tucked away in a corner of trendy, bohemian Silver Lake, one will find just such a spot, Holy Virgin Mary Russian Orthodox Cathedral. This church, for it was not yet a cathedral back then, went up in 1928 and it was dedicated to the famous icon of the Virgin Mary, “Rescuer of the Perishing”, enshrined in a Moscow church. The original icons were painted by General Anatoly L’vovich Schultz, who was a key figure in the church’s formative years. They have since been replaced by the work of a priest iconographer from northern California.

The best time to visit the church is a late Saturday afternoon. The sun hits the modest gold onion domes just so and gives the garden a meditative ambience. It is calming enough to even stave off the typical city sounds that never give our ears respite. At six o’clock Vespers begins and through the now open doors, the priest’s chanting and choir’s responses drifts out to the visitor. As one enters and the eyes accustom themselves to the candle lit interior, the scent and smoky curls of incense wafts about. You might as well be in Novgorod as in LA. The building’s style is in fact common to the Novgorod area of northwest Russia. Once inside, you will find no pews in this church, in strict adherence to Orthodox design principles. A few chairs for the infirm and old line the walls, everyone else stands during services. The interior is a rich treat to the eye but never loses its cozy feel. The iconography is very beautiful; one may even find icons containing small fragments of the bones of saints and martyrs, some killed by the communists.

On Sunday mornings, the distinctive call to prayer rings out from the bell tower, the peal of a specific pattern reserved for this hour sounds through the neighborhood. The original set of small, silver bells has since been donated to a mission church in Montana. With all the sensory information indicating ‘Russia’, still the church has adapted itself to this culture by conducting its vesperal services in English every other week and the Sunday morning liturgy at 9 a.m. is always in English. Slavonic, the ancient language of Russian services is still in full use otherwise. The parish still has members who were born in exotic places such as Manchuria in the post-revolutionary period as well as newly-arrived immigrants, but there is a very healthy representation of American converts who have found refuge in this little piece of old Russia and Orthodoxy.

Be sure to visit, if it’s open, the church ‘kiosk’ or bookstore, which boasts an excellent selection of books, cd’s, and icons, or enjoy a Russian lunch in the parish center at midday Sunday at bargain prices. If you have inquiries, direct them to Fr. Michael Senyo, the rector, or Fr. Yuri, the sacristan. As always when visiting a place of worship, whatever the religion, keep a respectful tone, avoid inappropriate attire, and, in this case, go ahead and light a candle. To the congregants, after all, you are on holy ground. Next time we’ll visit two Russian churches in the Hollywood area that are the products of the post-World War II era.

The address is 650 Micheltorena St., Los Angeles, CA 90026. It’s just off the Hollywood Freeway at the Silver Lake Blvd exit and Bellevue Street. Also, see the website at www.hvmla.org

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