$ - RUN to Colori (don’t walk) before they wise up!
HOME OF THE CIOPPINO! (big enough, Joe?)
Variety: even the manager doesn’t know the specials or the desserts until that night
Notable: food, service, atmosphere, location, price
Price: $ - go now before they wise up!
Delivery: small order 2 block radius / catering, anywhere
Verdict: KICK YOUR MAMA GOOD!
*They are still in the process of acquiring a liquor license, so b.y.o.b. and enjoy free corkage.
Hours: Mon – Fri 11am – 3pm; Thu 6-9pm; Fri-Sat 6-10pm
Address: 429 West 8th Street, Los Angeles | (213) 622-5950
Website: N/A
When you walk into Colori, you are bound to receive a warm greeting and, on your second visit, a hug from Manager Joe Herrarte. The food is so consistently delicious and the service is so consistently familial, I had to write about them … again.
I went back on a Monday afternoon and, after receiving my hug from Joe, sat down with him and learned more about the people behind the tastiness.
Geovanni “Joe” Herrarte was born in El Salvador at a rather inopportune time, politically speaking. So, he and his mother moved to LA when he was 7. Mr. Herrarte prefers to be called Joe, as he wants to save the egos of people like me struggling through Gee-oh-vah-knee.
Having worked his way up from bagboy at Beachwood Market to Store Manager at the Whole Foods on Fairfax and Santa Monica, Joe realized he had a passion for food, but wanted to move into the restaurant industry. It would be a Mt. Everest of a task for most, but Joe likes a challenge. He enrolled in culinary art classes at LA Trade Tech and, when he spotted that Help Wanted sign in the window of Colori Kitchen, grabbed fate by the … well, you know.
Joe strode confidently toward his dream into what he thought was a Chinese restaurant. (“The chairs were red! What would you think?” is his weak defense) (puhleeeze, joe 
i kid.)
Paola Labruna, co-owner and wife of the head chef, took one look at Joe and realized she’d be wasting her time and his if she hired Joe to wash dishes or bus tables. These were the only positions she had open, but she hired Joe as a waiter on the spot. 15 months later, she would promote him to his current position, Manager.
With 50 years of experience between Luigi Barducci Contessi (Head Chef, co-owner) and Mario Hernandez (Sous Chef), Colori Kitchen is a certain hit.
Luigi was born and raised in Italy and attended a culinary school, the name of which he cannot recall. “I don’t know. It is one of the oldest ones!” he laughs. I say, who cares, it worked! Upon arrival in the US at age 25, Luigi worked as a line cook (and eventually as head chef) at Locanda Veneta over sixteen years.
Mario arrived in America from Mexico at the age of 21 in order to make money. All three of them share a hearty laugh, “Of course! Why does anyone come to America? To see the Dodgers play?”
Mario began his career washing dishes at Lido’s in 1988 and, over the years, moved up to head chef through working in kitchens at Lido’s, Tuscana, La Bucca, Cucciana Calabrese, and Pecorino, where he met Luigi.
Bing, bang, boom, they opened Colori Kitchen together. You weren’t expecting the story to end that quickly, but it only took them six months to decide to go into business together.
The two share a passion for inventing and spontaneity. Even Joe doesn’t know what the specials or desserts will be until the evening of. He recounts a story of an after closing meeting at 1am when they suddenly caught the scent of apple pie baking. Joe also recounts a story involving Luigi, a box of mushrooms, and the resulting dinner menu, but I won’t go into that here.
Colori is the Italian word for “colors”. The intent is to welcome a variety of colorful foods, ethnicities, and cultures. Stir it all up, and you have “80% Italian and some Greek, Mediterranean, Mexican, Spanish, and … I don’t know.” (guffaws all around)
This interview involved a lot of joking and laughter. While the entire staff takes their business very seriously, they do not take themselves seriously. There is no pretentiousness whatsoever. When you walk in, you feel at home immediately, and it’s fun! The interview was a blast for me, and I have a good time every time I eat at Colori.
The dish they are proudest of is the Cioppino. I’ve had it, and it’s goooood. Cioppino is a mixture of sautéed clams, shrimp, lobster, fish of the day, and calamari served in a light tomato sauce. And you’ll only pay around $10 for it.
On Valentine’s Evening, you can anticipate a special SECRET menu created by Luigi and Mario to be served by candlelight. Their hours will be from 6pm to 9pm, so beat it to the phone and make a reservation now (phone number at top).
Cioppino photo thanks to Kelly Sue on Flickr.
Other photos courtesy of Big Al, the gal.
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1 T1 // Feb 18, 2008 at 4:16 pm
Colori IS tasty. You are right on. I’m always recommending Colori to those who’ve never been.
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