I must admit to wanting a piece of the occasional chain-style establishment - Mimi’s Cafe for its bread basket and french onion soup; the Hard Rock Cafe for its memorabilia; BJ’s Brewery for its Berry Burst Cider - but after an estimated million and one trips to New York (Brooklyn - Williamsburg, Greenpoint - and East Village) I’ve grown fond of the local establishment that exudes a neutral vibe with consistent quality. I’ve been really fortunate to find restaurants in the Valley serving up Indian, Chinese, and Mexican cuisine that seem to operate under the same ideals, but pizza is a whole ‘nother animal. You’ve got your Papa John’s, Domino’s, Pizza Hut, Little Caesar, all of which don’t claim to be anything other than what they are. Refreshingly so. Then you’ve got supposed New York pizzerias who make you wish they would just not shame New York by abusing the description. I mean, even Taco Bell allows enough fine print to acknowledge that their food is “Mexican-inspired”.
Cue the discovery of Mulberry Street Pizzeria - owned by actress Cathy Moriarty - tucked out of sight on Ventura Boulevard, just west of Balboa in Encino. The first time I ate there, Jay Leno and two friends were sitting outside with a few slices, which was somewhat apropos. Although not a food critic, everyone knows that he can afford top-notch quality and/or a private chef, no doubt; yet he was happily dining at an establishment not a mile from my house. That was exceptional advertising in itself. And as far as ambiance goes, there was just enough New York for me to wonder when I’d feel the slight rumble of the subway beneath my feet.
So you have your cheese;, your pepperoni, your mushroom pizzas; you’ve also your eggplant parmesan, your chicken parmesan, your rigatoni and your spinach white. The heroes I have yet to try, but their salads complement the main attraction, simply being fresh, and not a waste of space on the menu (and I’ve had some pathetic excuses for vegetation elsewhere). While bigger groups might call for whole pies, the individual slices are plenty - you might very well just be able to have one, although your palate will be wanting at least another. One feature that won’t go unnoticed is the writing on the walls, patrons’ hand-written kudos to the yummy-factor, ranging from Mr. Leno to Erik Estrada to my friend Annette (who I will always make fun of every time I see her: “Yep, I went to Mulberry yesterday and I had to check: it’s still there!”).
On a personal note, the establishment has found a special place in my heart thanks to a number of prized scenarios: after a long bike ride to the city of Paramount (and back); as an alternative to an elaborate cooking-attempt gone horribly wrong; and as a late-night pseudo-date and being the only couple noshing on thin crust after 10pm. It can be so many things: a nice way to end the weekend, to end an effed-up day, or just to hang out and get your eat on, period. It fits the local scene so seamlessly, and frankly, there’s no question that you’ll come back.
Mulberry Street Pizzeria - Encino & Beverly Hills
Photo courtesy of MulberryPizza.com
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1 response so far ↓
1 Edwin Zuniga // Aug 5, 2008 at 8:53 am
Sounds delicious! If Erik Estrada’s eaten there, you’d best believe Edwin will be eating there soon.
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